{"id":5240,"date":"2024-12-08T21:49:56","date_gmt":"2024-12-08T19:49:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/natureduca.com\/culturblog\/?p=5240"},"modified":"2024-12-18T15:18:52","modified_gmt":"2024-12-18T13:18:52","slug":"la-mitica-ruta-de-la-seda-el-valle-de-fergana-1a-parte","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/natureduca.com\/culturblog\/la-mitica-ruta-de-la-seda-el-valle-de-fergana-1a-parte\/","title":{"rendered":"LA M\u00cdTICA RUTA DE LA SEDA: EL VALLE DE FERGANA – 1\u00aa PARTE"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Hac\u00eda cuatro d\u00edas que el Ecuador del viaje se hab\u00eda producido, desde la inmensa, bella y extraordinaria Samarcanda me preguntaba \u00bfhabr\u00eda a\u00fan m\u00e1s sorpresas o ya habr\u00edamos tocado techo? Era evidente que lo que quedaba del viaje ser\u00eda otra cosa, si cabe m\u00e1s rico en lo humano pero no en la parte arquitect\u00f3nica de esa inolvidable y m\u00edtica ruta: ya no superar\u00edamos las impresiones recibidas, sobre todo, en la \u00faltima ciudad.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
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Logotipo de los ferrocarriles uzbecos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Tras nuestro descanso en la capital del pa\u00eds, al d\u00eda siguiente de nuevo al tren para utilizar el Afrosab-Talgo a trav\u00e9s de un trazado que partiendo al Sur, realizar\u00e1 un giro al este para alcanzar el c\u00e9lebre valle a trav\u00e9s de un infernal trazado realizado entre imponentes montas por el fara\u00f3nico proyecto de la Franja y la Ruta, algunas huellas del saqueo chino a las tierras raras son se\u00f1ales evidentes de esa poderosa industria extractiva llamada miner\u00eda y que deja yelmos los territorios en los que realiza sus bien planeados cargamentos. All\u00e1 en donde te encuentres, las inevitables huellas de esa actividad no dan opci\u00f3n a imaginar otro mundo donde lo que prima es la econom\u00eda y no la naturaleza o la gente. Ese trazado ferroviario facilita el tr\u00e1nsito de los uzbecos, sobre todo porque el trayecto es mucho m\u00e1s c\u00f3modo para ir hasta el famoso valle sin tener que jug\u00e1rtela en las sinuosas y serpenteantes carreteras a una altura que en invierno deben de provocar algo m\u00e1s que sustos.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Con el TALGO Afrosiab hacia el valle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

El itinerario rodear\u00e1 Tuyabogiz (pasando muy cerca de la reserva hom\u00f3nima), Ohangaron, Nurabad, Angren y un largo t\u00fanel donde todas las persianas ser\u00e1n bajadas y la vigilancia, omnipresente en todo vag\u00f3n hasta que se vuelve a ver la luz y estamos al otro lado del Valle con una pendiente que me recuerdan las revueltas de Santana, tras dejar atr\u00e1s Ventas de Zafarraya, pero a lo grande. La vigilancia se convierte en algo normal a pesar de los pesares.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
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La estaci\u00f3n de Orzu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

La l\u00ednea ferroviaria, cual serpiente, inicia el infernal descenso, pero desde las alturas tambi\u00e9n me devolv\u00eda a trazados andinos que quitaban el hipo. En el fondo peque\u00f1os n\u00facleos habitados y el curso fluvial bastante seco para aquella \u00e9poca del a\u00f1o pero que dan vida a trozos de sembrado que facilitan el d\u00eda a d\u00eda de las gentes de la regi\u00f3n que han conseguido domesticar, a trav\u00e9s de ingeniosas acequias, el territorio. En algunos tramos verdaderos emporios agr\u00edcolas que alimenta a personas de todo el orbe: esos ingenios no dejan indiferente al viajero que valorar\u00e1 a\u00fan m\u00e1s los frutos de la tierra.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Los billetes del TALGO uzbeco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

La ruta sigue por Konibodom, Besharik, Kokand, aqu\u00ed toca bajar, recoger b\u00e1rtulos y recomenzar el recorrido terrestre en una mini que nos permitir\u00e1 realizar un recorrido circular por el m\u00edtico y no recomendado valle. Primero ser\u00e1 la parte sur que limita con Tayikist\u00e1n, luego el regreso por el otro lado pasando por Margilon, Andijon, Namangan, Pop, Kokand hasta encarar el recorrido en sentido ascendente para alcanzar el \u201ct\u00fanel del tiempo\u201d que traer\u00e1 como sorpresa la aver\u00eda del aire acondicionado en el vag\u00f3n vecino y una serie de problemas que parte del grupo le quer\u00eda achacar al gu\u00eda, como si \u00e9l fuera el responsable de los ferrocarriles; los operarios trataron de solucionarlo, pero no hubo manera y el vag\u00f3n era realmente caluroso.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Extracci\u00f3n de tierras raras<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Antes de seguir con el relato es l\u00f3gico continuar con unas pinceladas sobre el extraordinario y f\u00e9rtil valle que, desde tiempos inmemoriales, ha significado que todos los vecinos quieran dominarlo y de ah\u00ed ese crisol de razas y, con ellas, los conflictos que se recrudecieron a comienzos del XXI cuando los movimientos isl\u00e1micos radicales trataron de hacerse con su control y el presidente [otros hablar\u00e1n del dictador] Karimov reprimi\u00f3 con gran dureza los mismos. Destaca la revuelta de Andijon [13 de mayo de 2005] con varios centenares de muertos y miles de detenidos. Hubo sanciones internacionales que trataron de hacer arrodillar al pol\u00edtico, pero la realidad siempre va por otros conductos cuando los intereses comerciales o estrat\u00e9gicos prevalecen. A las organizaciones que tanto molestan por otros lares [muchas veces financiadas por algunos de los \u201cfil\u00e1ntropos\u201d menos democr\u00e1ticos que existen] se les conmin\u00f3 a abandonar la regi\u00f3n. Los norteamericanos encontraron el cielo abierto cuando les ofreci\u00f3 el territorio para sus operaciones en esa gran zona caliente del planeta y desde entonces recogen informaci\u00f3n de primera mano que no allana el camino pero al menos no genera tantas v\u00edctimas ante el uso masivo de tecnolog\u00edas que no exist\u00edan hace d\u00e9cadas. Aviones no tripulados y drones de todo tipo son ahora los grandes aliados en esos inh\u00f3spitos territorios monta\u00f1osos que hacen que nuestro Mulhac\u00e9n se quede como un peque\u00f1o acomplejado hermano menor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

JUAN FRANCO CRESPO
lacandon999@yahoo.es<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hac\u00eda cuatro d\u00edas que el Ecuador del viaje se hab\u00eda producido, desde la inmensa, bella y extraordinaria Samarcanda me preguntaba \u00bfhabr\u00eda a\u00fan m\u00e1s sorpresas o ya habr\u00edamos tocado techo? Era evidente que lo que quedaba del viaje ser\u00eda otra cosa, si cabe m\u00e1s rico en lo humano pero no en\u2026<\/p>\n

Seguir leyendo…<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":-1,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"rop_custom_images_group":[],"rop_custom_messages_group":[],"rop_publish_now":"yes","rop_publish_now_accounts":{"twitter_226634691_226634691":""},"rop_publish_now_history":[],"rop_publish_now_status":"pending","_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,28],"tags":[2837,2828,2829,2836],"class_list":["post-5240","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cultura-tradiciones","category-viajes","tag-fergana","tag-ruta","tag-seda","tag-valle"],"yoast_head":"\nLA M\u00cdTICA RUTA DE LA SEDA: EL VALLE DE FERGANA - 1\u00aa PARTE - Blog Cultureduca educativa<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"LA M\u00cdTICA RUTA DE LA SEDA: EL VALLE DE FERGANA - 1\u00aa PARTE - Blog Cultureduca educativa - Cultura \/ tradiciones\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/natureduca.com\/culturblog\/la-mitica-ruta-de-la-seda-el-valle-de-fergana-1a-parte\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LA M\u00cdTICA RUTA DE LA SEDA: EL VALLE DE FERGANA - 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