{"id":240,"date":"2009-03-14T13:38:14","date_gmt":"2009-03-14T11:38:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.cultureduca.com\/blog\/?p=240"},"modified":"2010-12-24T18:18:19","modified_gmt":"2010-12-24T16:18:19","slug":"boletin-asocae-cocina-hispanorromana-y-visigoda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/natureduca.com\/culturblog\/boletin-asocae-cocina-hispanorromana-y-visigoda\/","title":{"rendered":"Cocina hispanorromana y visigoda"},"content":{"rendered":"

Comenzamos\u00a0aqu\u00ed un acercamiento a la historia de la cultura gastron\u00f3mica, y lo hacemos apoyados, sobre todo, en nuestro libro de referencia obligada: \u00abEl libro de la cocina espa\u00f1ola\u00bb de N\u00e9stor Luj\u00e1n y Juan Perucho que, a pesar de su relativa antig\u00fcedad, sigue teniendo un gran vigor, pues la historia, si est\u00e1 bien documentada, no puede quedar alterada en su veracidad por el paso del tiempo, salvo para enriquecerse en contenido.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Iniciamos el relato hist\u00f3rico en la cocina hispanorromana y visigoda, pues de lo que se cocinaba en Espa\u00f1a en la \u00e9poca anterior a la dominaci\u00f3n romana apenas se sabe nada. Fue con las legiones de Escipi\u00f3n cuando entraron en la Pen\u00ednsula las formas y conceptos culinarios de Roma.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Los romanos aportaron dos elementos que resultan fundamentales en la cocina espa\u00f1ola de hoy: el aceite y el ajo. Las propiedades beneficiosas del aceite ya fueron descritas por el gaditano Lucio Junio Moderato Cen su obra Los doce libros de Agricultura<\/em>, donde trata tambi\u00e9n sobre temas de cocina. Pero, lo fundamental de la cocina romana de aquel periodo est\u00e1 representado de modo sublime en el libro de Marco Gavio Apicio Celio De re coquinaria<\/em> (Sobre la materia de la cocina<\/em>), una de las pocas obras completas de la \u00e9poca que ha llegado hasta nuestros d\u00edas, y donde se recogen recetas y trucos para cocinar variados platos, incluso con cierta complejidad en cuanto a composici\u00f3n y preparaci\u00f3n.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Se reconoce a Apicio como un excelente gastr\u00f3nomo de la \u00e9poca del emperador Tiberio. Fue un innovador: invent\u00f3, por ejemplo, un procedimiento para conservar las ostras (Ostrea ut diu durent)<\/em>, y cre\u00f3 tambi\u00e9n algunas interesantes recetas para carne y reposter\u00eda (Sala cattobia apiciana, Patina apiciana, ofellas apicianas, <\/em>.).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Apicio trat\u00f3 sobre variadas materias culinarias y productos empleados en la cocina, desde las carnes y verduras hasta los frutos del mar. Se dice que era un gran amante de los crust\u00e1ceos, los cuales saboreaba con gran avidez.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

El tratado de Apicio est\u00e1 compuesto por diez libros titulados en griego:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

I Epimeles. <\/em>Reglas culinarias, remedios, caseros, especias.
\nII Artoptus. <\/em>Estofados, picados, etc\u00e9tera.
\nIII Cepuros. <\/em>Hierbas que sirven para cocinar.
\nIV Pandecter. <\/em>Generalidades.
\nV Osprion. <\/em>De las verduras.
\nVI Tropherter. <\/em>De las aves.
\nVII Po1yteles. <\/em>Excesos y exquisiteces.
\nVIII Tetrapus. <\/em>De los cuadr\u00fapedos.
\nIX Thalassa. <\/em>Del mar.
\nX Halieus vel halieuticon. <\/em>Del pescado y sus variedades.<\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Es de creer que a los hispanorromanos les gustaban las comidas fuertes, pues as\u00ed las prefer\u00edan los conquistadores romanos de los que obtuvimos su cultura gastron\u00f3mica. \u00c9stos especiaban los guisos de forma exagerada y sin medida. As\u00ed, por ejemplo, la patina quotidiana,<\/em>que era un plato ordinario para cualquier d\u00eda de la semana, es descrita por Apiciano del siguiente modo: \u00abh\u00e1gase una pasta de sesos previamente cocidos y saz\u00f3nese con pimienta, cominos, extracto de especias, caldo, vino cocido, leche y huevos. Se cuece al ba\u00f1o Mar\u00eda o a fuego lento\u00bb. Apiciano no explica c\u00f3mo se serv\u00eda esta pasta, pero se nota la firmeza y potencia del preparado.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Los banquetes pantagru\u00e9licos abundaron en las zonas de dominaci\u00f3n romana, y es de entender que as\u00ed se produc\u00edan tambi\u00e9n en la Hispania. Existen algunas referencias documentadas sobre grandes banquetes, como la que cita Macrobio en su libro III de las Saturnales<\/em>, en que es agasajado Quintus Caecilius Matellus Pius (un luchador en Espa\u00f1a contra Sertorio entre los a\u00f1os 79 al 72 a.C.), y donde se afirma que corr\u00eda mucho el vino, pues era la \u00fanica manera de poder degustar los casi treinta platos de que constaba el fest\u00edn, y entre los cuales hab\u00eda ostras crudas y en cazuela, almejas, ortigas y erizos de mar, conchas de p\u00farpura, tordos sobre fondo de esp\u00e1rragos, empanadas de gallina, cabeza de jabal\u00ed, liebres, patos, cerdo, panes, cremas, pasteles de s\u00e9mola, etc.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Despu\u00e9s de las invasiones la cocina romana subsisti\u00f3. A pesar de la decadencia del Imperio, los pueblos b\u00e1rbaros fueron acomodando sus costumbres y gustos a los estilos romanos, pues ciertamente les deslumbraba aquella civilizaci\u00f3n aunque se encontrara en declive. De esta manera, en todos los territorios ocupados que estaban romanizados, los invasores fueron asimilando parte de la cultura de los vencidos –tambi\u00e9n la gastron\u00f3mica–. En buena medida, la cocina adoptada por \u00e9stos fue impregnada de primitivismo y rusticidad.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

En la Espa\u00f1a visigoda existe una nebulosa en materia de cocina y poco se sabe de ese periodo. S\u00f3lo las Etimolog\u00edas<\/em>de san Isidoro de Sevilla ofrecen algunas referencias en este sentido, dentro de un compendio del saber de toda la \u00e9poca, pero que ofrecen dudas sobre una veracidad gen\u00e9rica de los contenidos, pues se escribi\u00f3 en un momento de la historia en que lo cient\u00edfico era confundido f\u00e1cilmente con lo fabuloso. A pesar de ello, el cristiano de la Alta Edad Media vivi\u00f3, durante largo tiempo, de las ense\u00f1anzas de este libro escrito en el siglo VII, donde se habla de todo: cosas pr\u00e1cticas, leyes, medicina, oficios eclesi\u00e1sticos, los \u00e1ngeles, las matem\u00e1ticas, la ret\u00f3rica y la dial\u00e9ctica, y tambi\u00e9n la cocina.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Comenzamos\u00a0aqu\u00ed un acercamiento a la historia de la cultura gastron\u00f3mica, y lo hacemos apoyados, sobre todo, en nuestro libro de referencia obligada: \u00abEl libro de la cocina espa\u00f1ola\u00bb de N\u00e9stor Luj\u00e1n y Juan Perucho que, a pesar de su relativa antig\u00fcedad, sigue teniendo un gran vigor, pues la historia, si\u2026<\/p>\n

Seguir leyendo…<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":75,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"rop_custom_images_group":[],"rop_custom_messages_group":[],"rop_publish_now":"initial","rop_publish_now_accounts":{"twitter_226634691_226634691":""},"rop_publish_now_history":[],"rop_publish_now_status":"pending","_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,18],"tags":[1055,1016,1012,1078,1009,1032,1017,1144,1145,1149,1043,1065,1033],"class_list":["post-240","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cultura-tradiciones","category-publicaciones","tag-agricultura","tag-arte","tag-ave","tag-cocina","tag-cultura","tag-estilo","tag-historia","tag-leyes","tag-libro","tag-libros-2","tag-literatura-2","tag-medicina","tag-vino"],"yoast_head":"\nCocina hispanorromana y visigoda - Blog Cultureduca educativa<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cocina 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un acercamiento a la historia de la cultura gastron\u00f3mica, y lo hacemos apoyados, sobre todo, en nuestro libro de referencia obligada: \u00abEl libro de la cocina espa\u00f1ola\u00bb de N\u00e9stor Luj\u00e1n y Juan Perucho que, a pesar de su relativa antig\u00fcedad, sigue teniendo un gran vigor, pues la historia, si\u2026 Seguir 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